- The following program is a PBS Wisconsin Original Production.

- Angela Fitzgerald: Coming up on Wisconsin Life: [shimmery music] a typewriter poet with the keys to connect, a team racing a vintage motorcycle across the country, [motor purrs] a nonprofit working to preserve an indigenous horse breed, and we share an animation that has us crawling through cave caverns.

That's all ahead on Wisconsin Life!

[uplifting guitars, strings, piano, and drums] - Announcer: Funding for Wisconsin Life is provided by the Wooden Nickel Fund, Mary and Lowell Peterson, the A.C.V.

and Mary Elston Family, the Obrodovich Family Foundation, the Stanley J. Cottrill Fund, Alliant Energy, UW Health, donors to the Focus Fund for Wisconsin Programs, and Friends of PBS Wisconsin.

[trumpets play race fanfare] - Announcer: The race is on!

Oh, Red's off to a lead.

[playful, upbeat music] - Angela Fitzgerald: Hello, and welcome to Wisconsin Life.

I'm your host, Angela Fitzgerald.

It's all corn dogs and cheese curds as we attend the Northern Wisconsin State Fair.

The expansive fairgrounds in Chippewa Falls have been a community staple for more than 120 years.

[strumming ukulele] It's a rich history that included agricultural exhibits, a midway, and even a 1935 Green Bay Packers game played at the fairgrounds.

Today, visitors can enjoy thrilling rides, indulge in culinary concoctions, watch animal exhibitions, or attend a pig, duck, and goat race.

- Announcer: Whoa, Blue and Yellow, they're running neck and neck.

[crowd cheering] - Each year in July, this fair is a chance to celebrate everything we love about our state from Up North and beyond.

[mellow ukulele] Before I take a ride on the Ferris wheel, let's check out another blue-ribbon story found in our state.

[shimmery music] We head to Milwaukee to join a poet who crafts custom works with each keystroke.

[typewriter cylinder "scritches"] [guiding to starting position] [clicking keys, carriage return] - Angela: Good writing is all about watching.

Just ask Anja Notanja Sieger.

- Anja Notanja Sieger: Listening.

Writing is listening, if you do it well.

[clicking typewriter keys] - Angela: Oh, we should start over then.

[Angela clears throat, paper rips from typewriter] Good writing is all about listening.

- Anja: Listening not only for what they need to hear, but also just listening to what they're saying.

- Angela: It's about zeroing in and reflecting on what's around you.

- Anja: People need to hear what they are thinking mirrored back to them, and too often, people aren't getting that.

But I don't really know what I'm talking about.

[chuckles] - Angela: Right...

Okay then, let's try this once more.

[advancing paper in typewriter] [carriage return] Introducing Anja.

She's been writing stories since she could draw.

- I've always was just one of those kids that... would draw a picture, and the picture would have a story.

And so, even before I could write, I'd be like, "Mom, Mom, write down this story!

This is, this is what this is about."

And that's just how I've always been.

- Later, drawing would segue into typing, lots of typing.

[playful piano and strings] [end-of-line ding] Anja creates poetry on the spot, setting up a typewriter at festivals, fairs, and craft shows around Wisconsin, and charging a fee to write personalized poems or stories.

- Anja: I generally give people a very thorough interview process where I want to know... what they need to hear right now or who is it going to and why?

And why does that person make them a better person?

Or how is their dog different from all other dogs?

You know, I get in there with people.

- One of her first poems featured a dash of romance and a whole lot of awkwardness.

[playful brass instruments] - A guitar player, who was a busker, came up to me, and he wanted a love poem.

And I think he was hitting on me, but I wrote him one because I needed the money.

[laughs] [typing] - For others, a dash of romance might shift to love.

- I remember this one couple; they wanted me to write their marriage vows.

So, I did.

And then, I put it in an envelope.

And then, they're like, "Seal it.

"We don't want to see it.

We want it to be a surprise during the wedding ceremony."

And I was just like, "Okay, all right, enjoy!

It'll be very entertaining."

[snickers] - While entertaining, there is pressure involved.

- Yeah, no, there's no delete key.

But in this day and age, that's magic because we have Photoshop, we have Artificial Intelligence, but here I am giving you an authentic artifact.

Perhaps there will be some flaws, just like I am flawed, and you are flawed, and it's okay.

It's interesting.

- It's helping people articulate those flaws that brings Anja the most satisfaction.

- I feel like I'm doing a good thing when I'm writing for people who are going through a difficult time or struggling with anxiety.

I mean, a lot of times, I'm stepping into a role that, like, therapists offer, but I am an artist, and so, I'm giving them therapeutic art, and that feels good.

- Anja, although an expert writer, has come to a somewhat nonexpert conclusion about herself.

- Anja: Every single time I write a poem for someone who's asking for something, there's always a chance I'm gonna fail.

There's always a chance they're not gonna like what I write.

There's always a risk.

And I think there's something kind of wonderful about that because I get to feel like I'm forever... an amateur.

- Or maybe she's an expert at humility, as well.

- Even though I consider myself an expert writer, I also don't think I'm done learning.

And so, in that way, I am very much an amateur.

[clicking keys] [carriage return] [shimmery music] - Our next story takes us to Beaver Dam to ride along with a motorcycle enthusiast preparing for a race across the nation.

[insects chirping] [motorcycle engine thrums] [jazzy music] Jonas Zahn is setting out on an epic adventure.

[motorcycle rumbling] - Jonas Zahn: This year's Virginia Beach to Oceanside, California.

The riders are from all over the world.

- Cannonball is one of the most difficult antique motorcycle endurance races on the planet.

- Jonas Zahn: This is a 1928 Moto Guzzi Sport 14 with a sidecar that is known for reliability and endurance.

- Jonas is preparing this vintage bike for a 3,800-mile coast-to-coast race that zigzags across America.

- Jonas: I imported it from Verona, Italy, just for Motorcycle Cannonball, so it's a pretty special motorcycle sitting here.

♪ ♪ - For Jonas, motorcycles are a family tradition.

- I discovered motorcycles through my grandfather in looking at his old black-and-white photo album.

As a young farm kid, I was always fascinated with machines.

[tool clinks] - As an adult, he still has a fascination with fixing and restoring classic bikes here at Peg Leg Speed Shop.

- I am actually an amputee from a motorcycle accident 24 years ago, hence Peg Leg Speed Shop.

[motorcycle engine revving] I got a second chance at life, so making it count, right?

I'm also not doing this alone.

Brenda is an amazing woman.

She's a biker at heart.

- Brenda Kuhl and Jonas share a biker bond.

- Brenda Kuhl: I love Jonas like he's a brother to me, and I love that he chose me.

- Brenda said, "I'll ride in a sidecar."

"Really?

Okay.

Well, then, you can navigate."

- At my age, I thought, "This is an opportunity for me to experience a cross-country trip, whether it's a little bit scary or whether it's a lot of fun."

- Two heads are better than one, so I'm glad she's on board.

[garage door opening] - Team 36 has been working for more than a year to get the Moto Guzzi race-ready.

[ringing bell, pumping pedal starter] - Jonas: I have ridden antiques, and I have done cross-country touring, but I have not combined them together.

And it has been more than 20 years since I rode a motorcycle across the Wisconsin state line.

[motorcycle engine chugs] - Race day arrived with a lot of anticipation.

- Day one of Cannonball, we rode to the starting place.

There's this great big statue in Virginia Beach.

[motors rumble] The average speed for most of us will be about 35 miles an hour.

It's not about going fast.

You experience the smells of the countryside.

That is just so awesome.

[slaps leg] I'm looking forward to that.

It's emotional for me.

[engine rattles] It's exploring, and it's exciting.

It puts life into me.

[cheers] - Both Jonas and Brenda are ready for the ride of a lifetime.

- Keeping a motorcycle that's almost a hundred years old, operating every day, all day, that is the challenge.

- Challenging would be an understatement for what Team 36 would encounter.

- Brenda: Getting on the road and seeing bikes already breaking down was a little scary and unnerving.

- Jonas: Keep in mind, even the best-laid plans can just...

Whoop!

Out the window, right?

- Jonas just looked at me, he said, "The bike is running great."

- We're going faster; it's getting more horsepower.

- In an instant... [pop] that all changed.

[sad music] - All of a sudden, this big, huge pop happened.

- We got another five miles down the road, and it just went... whoosh!

Perfectly quiet, dead silent, coasted to a stop in the beautiful North Carolina countryside.

- One hundred miles into the race, the motorbike they nicknamed "Renata, the goddess of rebirth and adventure" in Italian broke down.

- Brenda's like, "Just fix it, please, just fix it."

I saw the valve was actually broken in two pieces.

We had a thousand hours of mechanic time.

I had 750 miles of practice rides.

It still broke down in a way that we weren't going to come back.

Made the decision to abandon the Moto Guzzi.

- In that very moment, Jonas forged his own comeback at a nearby vintage motorcycle museum.

[gentle banjo] - Jonas: It turns out he had a 1937 Harley-Davidson.

[speaking with great emotion] That's the bike that made me fall in love... with motorcycling.

And there it is.

And it's just like Grandpa's.

[laughs warmly] - Team 36 named the new bike "Salvatore."

In Italian, that translates to "savior."

Jonas had found his salvation.

- Jonas: I knew that it was not going to be good for Brenda, and I felt bad about that.

- For Brenda, it would mean the end of the road.

- I started to cry.

- Jonas: In the rain.

- Brenda: In the rain.

And having a moment to myself, thinking, "I really didn't want it to end."

[choking up] It looks like I just took my last thing off of Renata.

She's staying behind.

She's not going to make Motorcycle Cannonball.

- Those tears would turn to triumph and her own shot at redemption.

- Brenda: You don't ever want to wait for the opportunity to present itself again.

I flew back to Wisconsin, got home at quarter to twelve at night, loaded my bike by six in the morning.

[motor rumbling] Drove cross-country back to Cape Girardeau on my Harley.

- Brenda would go on to complete the race route on her Harley.

[cheers and applause] - Brenda: I videotaped you coming in.

- Here comes Jonas!

- Group: Whoo!

- Jonas crossed the finish line on his new vintage Hog.

- Yeah, Jonas!

[cheers and applause] - Brenda: We were all a little bit emotional.

Just giving him a big hug, and it's nothing for Jonas to always give me a hug and tell me, you know, how proud he is of me anyway.

[Jonas chuckles] [music, engine humming] - Jonas: We wouldn't be doing this if it wasn't fun.

I don't understand why everybody doesn't want to do this.

[motor putting] - As for Renata, she is set for her own revival and a shot at a comeback.

- I will also do Cannonball again on this same Moto Guzzi.

We're gonna give it a shot.

[motor thrumps] [shimmery music] - We're at the Northern Wisconsin State Fair, checking out the variety of entertainment, exhibits, and animals, highlighting what's best about our state.

[whimsical circus music] - So far, Yellow's got it.

- It all starts with a look back at the rich history of these fairgrounds with Executive Director Rusty Volk.

- Rusty Volk: How you doing?

This is the Northern Wisconsin State Fair and our 126th edition of the fair.

When you go back and calculate, this was the largest fair in the state of Wisconsin at the turn of the century.

The Depression was a very difficult time for everyone.

In 1932, there was no money from any of the counties, so businessmen in the region got together and purchased the Northern Wisconsin State Fairgrounds from the State of Wisconsin.

That's how we became a privately-owned organization, which we are still today.

- Okay, and the legacy remains, so now we're, what, almost 100 years removed.

- Correct, exactly.

- And things are still going strong.

- Rusty: Exactly.

In 2007, the two owners put it up for sale.

They were starting to lose money, so we saved the fairgrounds.

That's where this started.

The fair itself has almost doubled over the last three years, where we're bringing in 120,000 people over fair week, about $12 million worth of economic impact for the community.

As a nonprofit, all funds go back into the facilities, into the operation.

- Angela: It sounds exciting and it's connected to such a rich history so it's great that the fair and the fairgrounds were able to be preserved.

- Exactly.

The tradition is very rich here and it's very vast.

[all cheering] - What might I expect today, and are there certain things that I should not miss?

- Well, what you can't miss is the food.

- Okay.

- Number one, you gotta make sure you get the food 'cause we have a wonderful variety.

And what you can expect: you're gonna see and witness probably the cleanest fairgrounds that you're ever gonna be at.

Our carnival that we have, North American Midway, is the largest mobile carnival operator in the United States.

- With my must-see list, it was time for fun at the fair, enjoying food, games, and a ride to the top of the Ferris wheel, all celebrating what's great about Northern Wisconsin.

[upbeat music] [shimmery music] Now, we meet the founder of a nonprofit in Spring Valley, working to preserve a breed of horses that once faced extinction.

♪ ♪ [cheerful, folksy music, footsteps] As Em Loerzel walks by UW-River Falls' clock tower, she's starting a new time in her life.

- Em Loerzel: I'm a newly-minted PhD, and I was able to start at UW-River Falls in their social work department, and I feel really lucky.

- For Em, it's a dream job, where she can continue her social justice work, serving her Native community.

- I'm really, really passionate about the wellness of my community.

Hi, boys!

Good morning!

- But in addition to a dream job, Em also finds herself fulfilling a dream for her people.

- It seems like Creator has a funny sense of humor.

I guess... now I do a lot of stuff with horses.

[chuckles] - Horses that were once in danger, she has now given a home.

- Em: This is the first home that we were ever able to buy.

We bought it more for the horses and less for us.

[carefree country guitar] This is "Grey Cloud."

- Em sees the horses as family.

- And then this is "Strawberry Ode'imini Giizis," the Strawberry Moon.

- This is " Misajidamoo."

That means "grey squirrel."

Her Ojibwe name is "Dimi."

- The horses have Ojibwe names because they are known as Ojibwe ponies.

- They're distinct.

They're a very distinct breed.

- Distinct and rare.

Fewer than 200 Ojibwe ponies remain.

[horses lips flutter, trainer makes clicking sound] [horse clip clops] The chance to work with the rare breed attracted Leah Witt, a recent graduate of UW-River Falls' Equine Science program.

- Leah Witt: They're a lot fuzzier than your average horse.

They have these really, really hairy little ears.

They also have this enormous, thick mane, and what that actually does is it keeps their veins and their arteries warm in the wintertime and cool in the summertime.

- Angela: Those features made the ponies well-adapted for the dense woods of northern Wisconsin, home to the Ojibwe people.

Traditionally, the ponies and people depended upon one another.

- Leah: They're pretty strong and sturdy for the size that they are, and so, that's what made them really excellent at pulling things out from woods and logging.

- Angela: But the ponies were more than workhorses.

Em says the connection between horse and human has a deep spiritual dimension.

[rooster crows] - Em: I would also argue that the ponies are our community, but ultimately, they are an extension of us, and we are an extension of them.

We are intertwined.

- Reforging that link has driven Em on her mission to restore the Ojibwe pony.

- Em: My question to you is, wouldn't you help your relative survive?

I would.

- But she doesn't do it alone.

The nonprofit group Em founded, the Humble Horse, is a growing movement.

- Em: This has been a community thing, because without community, both non-Indigenous, Indigenous, both equestrian and non-equestrian, right, we wouldn't be able to do what we do.

- Angela: That includes the Wrisky Ranch, which provides boarding and space for Leah to train the horses for riding.

An important step to their preservation.

- Leah: It's really hard to convince people that they should have these horses if they don't see them riding and doing things.

- Em: They don't just belong in museums, right?

They don't just belong in a history book.

We need to make sure that there's a future for them, too.

[folksy guitar] - Members of the Humble Horse herd have become ambassadors for the breed.

A visit to the River Falls campus, near Em's office, provided welcome relief during a stressful semester.

- Em: Maybe you can call it "multi-species social work."

[laughs] - Whatever you call it, the Humble Horse is making a difference for people and ponies.

- Em: I'm not an owner.

I don't own these horses, but I caretake for them And I'm lucky enough to do so.

[invigorating country folk] [shimmery music] - For our last story, author Robert Root overcomes his fears as he journeys into the caves at Ledge View Nature Center in this animated tale.

[strumming acoustic instrument] - Robert Root: I'm the only one signed up for the cave tour at the Ledge View Nature Center, but Jane Mingari, the Assistant Naturalist, agrees to lead it.

Despite a fear of tight, dark places, I'd resolved to explore a cave.

Now, I have no excuse to back out.

We walk to the entrance on the roofs of caves.

Jane explains how the solution caves below us were carved by seepage of rain and snowmelt that sometimes became underground streams and even waterfalls.

The ground beneath us is honeycombed with chambers and channels.

The Carolyn's Caverns cave system is over 700 feet long.

It's accessible part of the year for tours, but closed from October to May for bat hibernation.

[bats squeaking] [dramatic orchestral music] [water dripping] [voice sounds echoey] Its first room, the Bat Room, has an opening in its steel door for bats-- big brown, little brown, long-eared, and tri-colored bats-- to enter and exit.

Jane urges me to explore two side rooms.

I smile gamely and commit myself to crawling and clambering.

I squirm on my belly in and out of one narrow passage... [water dripping, clambering] and climb down a ladder into a small, enclosed space with a muddy bottom.

I hope I've acclimated myself to what's ahead.

We wander through other rooms and passages, stepping carefully on the uneven floor, wary of protrusions near our heads.

I bend, I stoop, I crawl on my hands and knees, and I slither outright.

Only one space is especially tight-- less so for Jane than for me.

But crawling through passages like the Whale's Throat and the Kid's Passage means venturing into long, dark holes with no chance to raise my head or propel myself by any means other than elbows and thighs.

I try not to think about getting stuck and soon realize I don't need to think about it.

When we descend to Carolyn's Cave, the original entrance to the system, we're 17 feet below the surface.

At the bottom of Dave's Sink, the deepest room, we're 36 feet, four stories, underground.

[dripping, dramatic orchestra] At times, bending to look down a dark passage, I feel the lure of crawling in to see just how far it would take me, how tangled and interconnected the cavities might be.

Jane illuminates layers of Silurian strata-- fossils, chert, cave coral, and miniature stalactites.

She steers me around hungry mud, the sticky pools on the cave floors.

[sloppy sucking sounds] Despite the weight of the rock strata above me, the density of the walls around me, the impenetrable darkness beyond this room, I feel no eagerness to leave the caves.

[uplifting instrumental] When we reach daylight, I feel no sense of relief.

I suppose you could say I confronted my fear of crawling in caves and overcame it.

It seems to me more likely that I was too absorbed in where I was to notice my fear.

[large birds calling] [shimmery music] - We've spent a full day at the fair and shared the lives of people doing incredible things.

To find more stories, visit WisconsinLife.org and reach out to us by email at Stories@WisconsinLife.org.

From the Northern Wisconsin State Fair, I'm your host, Angela Fitzgerald, and this is our Wisconsin Life.

Bye!

[uplifting guitars, strings, piano, and drums] - Announcer: Funding for Wisconsin Life is provided by the Wooden Nickel Fund, Mary and Lowell Peterson, the A.C.V.

and Mary Elston Family, the Obrodovich Family Foundation, the Stanley J. Cottrill Fund, Alliant Energy, UW Health, donors to the Focus Fund for Wisconsin Programs and Friends of PBS Wisconsin.